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Good to know about wood

What to consider with panelling?

Remember to consult a professional for exact instructions regarding the requirements for your job. Errors can occur in production, and a package may contain the wrong product. Never install an incorrect product: once installed, you’ve accepted it. Errors can only be dealt with before installation, because the seller and manufacturer must have an opportunity to inspect any errors. This avoids any extra costs to the customer, and the correct goods can be delivered.

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Painted or stained?

Our painted mouldings and panels are always knotless, finger-jointed pine: all knots are cut off, and a saw-toothed edge is created. Two pieces that fit each other are glued together, creating knotless timber. This product will have no problems with resin, and there will be no knots that would look different on the painted surface.

Our painted products are semi-matte, and the colour codes are found here:

See colours here

Our stained timber products and untreated wood products are always made from timber that has not been glued. This means that all parts of the wood, including the knots, are visible through the stain. The wood becomes darker in an individual moulding or panel at the same rate, and the grains create rhythmic patterns.

We have a range of stain colours, some of which do not have a corresponding colour in the colour atlas.

See colours here

Special colours by order

If the standard colours do not seem suitable, you may want to consider a colour we can create at the factory. Staining mouldings and panels at the factory ensures a beautiful, uniform finish, and speeds up your work during installation. The surface painted at the factor looks neat and polished, compared to what you can achieve with a brush at home. Place an order through one of our retailers.

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Choice of skirting boards

The choice of skirting board depends primarily on the floor material and the clearance required next to the wall. With a larger clearance, choose a thicker skirting board to cover any gaps between the floor material edge and the skirting board. Parquet and laminate floor call for a wider skirting board, while a narrower one is sufficient for plastic flooring.

Choose the profile and colour to create the style you are looking for.

Adjusting skirting boards

A wooden skirting board is suitable for all construction and renovation jobs. You can take off some of the thickness from the back of wooden skirting boards to make any necessary adjustment as you work. A wooden skirting board is also easy to bend and once nailed in place, will settle in the desired position. A taller skirting board may have to be adjusted in places where it runs past electrical sockets installed low on the wall.

A wooden skirting board withstands wear and tear well, and the surface is not easily damaged when hoovering, for example. Fixing small damage is easy: simply sand down the affected area and paint over.

How to install skirting boards

The easiest way to install skirting boards is to use a nail gun. The nails should go 6–7 mm from the top, perpendicular to the skirting board.

If you haven’t got a nail gun, use a hammer. Use a pin punch for the last few millimetres to prevent hammer marks on the surface.

Use screws for installation on stone walls. Go to the hardware store and ask for wall expansion nails suitable for skirting. To prevent the skirting from splitting, we recommend that you pre-drill a hole before screwing, especially at the ends of each skirting board. A perpendicular hole can also be made by drilling, 6–7 mm from the edge of the skirting. We recommend that you always drill a hole at the ends of each skirting board to prevent splitting.

Countersinking the screw heads creates a better-looking finish.

When you have to extend a skirting board, we always recommend a 45-degree angle away from the light source or the most common direction viewed. This makes it less conspicuous. Remember to get a little bit of extra skirting to make sure you do not have to buy any more. The colour is always uniform in products bought at the same time, but not necessarily quite the same in the next batch.

Check out our skirting boards here

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How to choose your cover fillets

Usually cover fillets for doors and windows are chosen to suit other wooden surfaces in the interior or the age of the home. The profile can be decorative or straight, whatever you feel is right. If you choose the same profile as the skirting boards, you get a uniform feel for the mouldings. A good rule of the thumb is that the lower the ceiling, the narrower the moulding.

What to take into account when choosing cover fillets

  1. Choose a sufficiently wide product to cover the gap between the window or door frame and the wall.
  2. Note also the distance of the light switch from the frame: you may have to carve a gap in the cover fillet for the switch.
  3. Choose a colour you like, maybe the same as the door frame, door or walls.

Cover fillet properties

Arvolista’s cover fillets are made of solid wood. Both outer edges of the cover fillet are rounded to prevent people from scratching into sharp edges. A wooden skirting board is easy to bend and once nailed in place, will settle in the desired position. A wooden cover fillet can be re-treated. Wood withstands wear and tear: the surface is not easily damaged when hoovering, for example. Minor damage can be sanded down and painted over.

Installation of cover fillet

  1. Depending on the surface, install the cover fillet with nails or screws.
  2. Pre-drill a hole in the cover fillet to prevent it from splitting when you tighten the screw. In certain cases, you can also use adhesive.
  3. The best way to cut the material is with a circular saw with an adjustable angle. With the proper angle, making the scarf joints is easy.
  4. Make scarf joints in inner and outer corners and whenever you need an extension.
  5. Practice first with another piece of wood to make sure you get the angle right.
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How to select cornices

All our mouldings are made of solid wood, and suitable owing to their workability for all construction and renovation jobs. For example, you can whittle the reverse side to allow for any irregularities in the installation site. Being made of wood, the cornices are light in weight and can be bent, and once nailed, settles in place nicely.

Selection of cornice

  1. The main job of the cornice is to create a neat finish between the wallpapered wall and painted ceiling.
  2. The minimum width of a cornice must be sufficient to cover the wallpaper edges.
  3. A shadow cornice can also be used. This creates a shadow at the ceiling edge and will hide any inaccuracies in the wallpaper or painting edges, if a regular cornice is not appropriate.
  4. You can also use narrow cornices for the finishing of in inner corners to create a neat finish between a painted ceiling and wallpapered wall.
  5. Choose a cornice colour that you like: either similar to the door and window frames, the colour of the ceiling or walls, or something quite different to highlight the cornices.

Shadow cornice and regular cornices

Installation of cornice

  1. Depending on the surface, install the cover fillets with nails or screws.
  2. Pre-drill small holes in the cornice to prevent it from splitting. In certain cases, you can use adhesive.
  3. The best way to cut the material is with a circular saw with an adjustable angle. Using the proper angle, make the scarf joints.
  4. Make scarf joints in inner and outer corners and whenever you need an extension.
  5. Making the joints in a cornice is tricky, so practice first with another piece to make sure you get the angle rights.

Making scarf joints for cornices

Making a scarf joint for a cornice will work when you put the cornice in the scarf joint jig in the same position as when it will be installed. You must also take into account that timber moves. The longer the cornice, the longer it needs to adjust to the installation site temperature and humidity before installation. If you make a scarf joint right after you have brought in the material, the joint will be open in a matter of days.

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Selecting edge strips

Edge strips are suited for outer corners and also for door and window frames in places where a cover fillet is not enough.

Owing to their workability, timber mouldings are suitable for all construction and renovation jobs. They are easy to bend and once nailed in place, will settle in the desired position. You can, for example, whittle the reverse side to allow for any irregularities in the installation site. For wet areas, we recommended wooden mouldings treated with sauna protection.

A wooden moulding also has the benefit of being re-treatable. Wood withstands wear and tear well, and the surface does not break easily when knocked during hoovering, for example. Fixing small damage is easy: simply sand down the affected area and paint over.

What to take into account when choosing edge strips

  1. Edge strip is available both in L-shape and rectangular shape.
  2. An L-shaped edge strip can be used to create a neat finish for panelling, or around doors or windows when a mere cover fillet is not enough.
  3. A rectangular edge strip is used for finishing outer corners.
  4. Choose a colour you like: either same as the door or window frames, or something quite different.

Installing edge strips

  1. Depending on the surface, install edge strips with nails or screws.
  2. Pre-drill a hole in the cover fillet to prevent it from splitting when you tighten the screw. In certain cases, you can also use adhesive.
  3. The best way to cut the material is with a circular saw with an adjustable angle. With the proper angle, it is easy to make the scarf joints.
  4. Make scarf joints in inner and outer corners and whenever you need an extension.
  5. We recommend that you practice first with another piece of wood to make sure you get the angle right.
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Wooden mats – a touch of spa atmosphere

A wooden mat can create a cosy atmosphere in your bathroom or sauna. Wood feels pleasant under the feet, and is really easy to maintain. A wooden mat is naturally warmer under your feet than stone materials.

A wooden mat is equally well suited to a sauna by the lake as to a modern home. Our mat, made from pine slats, is PEFC-certified and fully recyclable.

The fully treated wooden surface prevents dirt from being absorbed, so regular rinsing or washing with a mild detergent is enough.

The base has a PVC strip to prevent slipping. The strip is also handy in that you can cut the mat to any length.

A wooden mat can also be used for a range of construction projects, such as building a screen or a room divider.

Arvolista’s wooden mats

  • Several colours: black, grey, mocha, alder or clear.
  • Treated with tinted or non-tinted sauna protection
  • Regular drying in a vertical position extends the product’s life.
  • Easy to clean with a mild detergent.
  • The entire product is recyclable.
  • The plastic strip prevents the mat from slipping (but you must nevertheless always be careful in wet rooms). 

Learn about the product

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How to install cover fillets for doors

  1. Mark the positions of horizontal and vertical cover fillets about one centimetre from the edges of the frames to create a neat finish.
  2. Place the vertical cover fillet at the correct height on the floor or on top of the skirting board, depending on how you have planned things.
  3. Mark the point in the vertical cover fillet where the cover fillets meet. You can also mark in the horizontal cover fillet where the cover fillets meet.
  4. If the door frames have been installed straight, the scarf joint angle should be 45 degrees. Check the measurements for the other vertical cover fillet before you start cutting. If you are installing cover fillets for a door with a frame that is not straight, this must be taken account of when drawing the angles.
  5. Cut the cover fillets along the markings. Start with the top cover fillet, but do not install fully in place yet. Once you can see that all parts fit in nicely, secure in place properly.